My surfing career has been limited to a summer in my teens when I was thirteen(?). I was not wildly successful at the endeavor. I spent many, more successful, summers body surfing and body boarding. But being in the surf is a gorgeous experience and getting to the point where you can actually position yourself to catch a wave, regardless of what you're going to ride it with, is a big part of that experience.
I've spent June and July paddling out. I've been huffing and puffing and stroking the water with my arms, often feeling like I'm not moving because of the overwhelming pull of the tide. I've felt pounded by the waves, swallowing water, while I paddle out to a place where I can contemplate catching a wave.
But it was easy deciding to keep paddling. I could see the swells rolling in. I could see the spot in the ocean where I wanted to choose a wave.
This week I turned my board around and the swells are magnificent.
I should wash up on shore sometime in September.